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Scandinavian Santa Gnome Amigurumi

by | All Designs, Crochet, Free Patterns, Kids & Toys, My Favorites, Winter

It’s almost October and time to start your holiday crocheting! I’m terribly proud of myself for having prepared for Christmas this far in advance with my Scandinavian Santa Gnome. Now to get crackin’ on other projects!

Scandinavian Santa Gnome striped elf legs

This Santa Gnome is part of my ongoing collaboration with Lion Brand Yarn, and is part of their 12 Weeks of Christmas extravaganza, where several of my favorite designers share crochet and knit projects that you can make in the weeks leading up to the holidays. Be sure to head over to lionbrand.com to see all 12 projects!

Scandinavian Santa Gnome free crochet pattern. Makes a perfect handmade gift for Christmas! | www.1dogwoof.com

I guess making a santa gnome has always been somewhere on my list, and I especially liked the idea that I wouldn’t have to deal with amigurumi eyes. I know they totally make or break a facial expression, and I always end up spending so much time on time; I was looking forward to skipping that part and just sticking a nose on a face. Without a full facial expression, there’s always so much to interpret from these Scandinavian inspired gnomes. Are they sad, or mischievous, or somewhat languid and just enjoying a quiet life? I love their mystery and playfulness!

This Santa Gnome is made from my favorite Vanna’s Choice yarn, my go-to worsted weight acrylic workhorse. It’s just easy to work with, and easy to find, and there’s always a stash of it in my workroom. Besides the yarn and the polyfill, I tried a new technique this time around -> there’s a pouch of rice in his bum to give him a bit of extra weight! The pouch is the foot end of a pair of old nylon stockings, filled with dry, uncooked rice. After lightly stuffing the body piece, I added the rice pouch and then filled the rest of the body with the polyfill fiber. The body then feels soft still, but has that extra bit of oomph that makes him sit still!

Scandinavian Santa Gnome

All the body pieces are created separately, filled separately, and then sewn together. I had the most problems with the legs and feet, and ended up sewing the legs pretty close to front of the body piece so that he could sit properly. The arms were pretty easy, since they just needed to be on either side of the body. I sewed the nose on sideways, as in the opening and closing rounds were on the top and bottom, and NOT actually facing out. I also attached the nose at several points to give it a bit of a squashed look.

Scandinavian Santa Gnome

The hat was probably the least intuitive of all the pieces to put together. Of course, it’s a hat, so it goes on top of the “head”, but there’s no head, just the body, so it really just sits “on top”. In order to get that too-big look, I sewed the hat directly onto the arm, around the back and on the other arm, using a whip stitch. Before I closed it off over the nose, I added a bit of stuffing inside the hat to give the illusion that there’s a head there. Then I continued using the whip stitch to attach the hat just pulled over the nose.

Scandinavian Santa Gnome

The beard is made by tying yarn to each stitch in the body, all around the nose to fill it out. When my kids saw the face, they immediately asked where the face was! My daughter said “Mommy, where’s the face?” and then she answered her own question by lifting the beard and yelling “HERE! <insert manic laughter>”. You can leave the yarn as is, or unravel each piece to make a fuller beard, or even brush it out using a dog slicker brush* to get a totally different look!

The free pattern for Scandinavian Santa Gnome is available below. You can also purchase an inexpensive PDF from my pattern shops if you’d like to print the pattern for offline use. Another option is to purchase the entire kit – yarn + pattern – directly from Lion Brand. Choose your favorite flavor below!

Purchase the crochet pattern from Etsy

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Purchase the yarn kit from Lion Brand

Scandinavian Santa Gnome free crochet pattern. Makes a perfect handmade gift for Christmas! | www.1dogwoof.com

Supplies

Abbreviations

  • sl st – slip stitch
  • ch – chain stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet decrease: Insert hook into front loop of next st. Without yarning over, insert hook into front loop of next st. Yarn over. Pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining loop on hook.
  • hdc2tog – half double crochet decrease: Yarn over. Insert hook into front loop of next st. Without yarning over, insert hook into front loop of next st. Yarn over. Pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining loops on hook.
  • Single post st – Work around the post of the stitch, instead of through the loops.
  • Bobble – [Yarn over, insert hook into st and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.] Repeat [ ] 2 more times. Yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

  • Skill level Easy.
  • Gauge doesn’t matter on this project.
  • Overall size is approximately 15 inches tall.
  • Pattern is worked in both seamed and continuous rounds, as specifically indicated in the instructions.

Scandinavian Santa Gnome Pattern

BODY

Round 1: (in RED) Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join with sl st to first sc. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc into each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (18)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 2 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (24)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 3 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (30)

Round 6: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 4 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (36)

Round 7: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 5 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (42)

Round 8: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (42)

Round 9: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 6 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (48)

Round 10: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 7 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (54)

Round 11: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (54)

Round 12: (in WHITE) Ch 1. Work [1 sc in each of next 8 st, 2 sc into next st] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (60)

Round 13-14: (in WHITE) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60)

Round 15-19: (in RED) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (60)

Round 20: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 8 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (54)

Round 21: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (54)

Round 22: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 7 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (48)

Round 23: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (48)

Round 24: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 6 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (42)

Round 25: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (42)

Start stuffing the body. You can use a small rice-filled pouch to give the body some weight.

putting together your santa gnome

Round 26: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 5 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (36)

Round 27: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (36)

Round 28: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 4 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (30)

Round 29: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 3 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (24)

Round 30: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 2 st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (18)

Round 31: Ch 1. Work [1 sc next st, 1 sc2tog] 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (12)

Finish stuffing the body before closing off.

Round 32: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (6)

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Pull yarn through last stitch. Sew yarn end into the front loop of each of the 6 st around. Pull tight to close the circle. Fasten off.

HAT: (worked in continuous rounds)

Round 1: (in RED) Work 6 sc into a magic circle. (6)

Round 2: Work 1 sc in each st around. (6)

Round 3: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (7)

Round 4: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (8)

Round 5: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (9)

Round 6-7: Work 1 sc in each st around. (9)

Round 8: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (10)

Round 9: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (11)

Round 10: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (12)

Round 11-12: Work 1 sc in each st around. (12)

Round 13: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (13)

Round 14: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (14)

Round 15: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (15)

Round 16: Work 1 sc in each st around. (15)

Round 17: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (16)

Round 18: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (17)

Round 19: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (18)

Round 20: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (19)

Round 21: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (20)

Round 22: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (21)

Round 23: Work [1 sc in each of next 6 st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (24)

Round 24-25: Work 1 sc in each st around. (24)

Round 26: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (25)

Round 27: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (26)

Round 28: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (27)

Round 29: Work [1 sc in each of next 8 st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (30)

Round 30: Work 1 sc in each of next 14 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 15 st. (31)

Round 31: Work 1 sc in each of next 15 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 15 st. (32)

Round 32: Work 1 sc in each of next 15 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 16 st. (33)

Round 33: Work [1 sc in each of next 10 st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (36)

Round 34: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (37)

Round 35: Work 1 sc in each of next 10 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 26 st. (38)

Round 36: Work 1 sc in each of next 20 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 17 st. (39)

Round 37: Work 1 sc in each st around. (39)

Round 38: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (40)

Round 39: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (41)

Round 40: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (42)

Round 41: Work [1 sc in each of next 13 st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (45)

Round 42: Work 1 sc in each of next 18 st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 26 st. (46)

Round 43: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (47)

Round 44: Work 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in each of the remaining sts. (48)

Round 45: Work [1 sc in each of next 7 st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (54)

Round 46-47: Work 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in next st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, but leave the loop on the hook. (54)

Round 48: (now worked in seamed rounds, in WHITE) Pull up a loop of white yarn. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first sc with sl st. (54)

Round 49: Ch 1. Work 1 single post st in each st around. Join to first st with sl st. (54)

Round 50: Ch 3. Work [1 bobble in next st, 1 dc in next st] 27 times. Join to first bobble with sl st. Fasten off and weave in ends. (54)

Make a small WHITE pom-pom and attach to the top of the hat. Tuck the knot on the inside of the hat.

FEET: (worked in seamed rounds)

Round 1: (in BLACK) Ch 4. Work 1 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc in next ch, 3 sc in next ch (turns the corner), 1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch. Join with sl st to first sc. (8)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in next st, 2 hdc in each of next 5 st, 2 sc in each of next 2 st. Join with sl st to first sc. (16)

Round 3: Ch 2. Work [1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st] 8 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (24)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work [1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] 8 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (32)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (32)

Round 6: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 6 st, 2 sc2tog, 6 hdc2tog, 2 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 6 st. Join with sl st to first sc. (22)

Round 7: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 5 st, 2 sc2tog, 2 hdc2tog, 2 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 5 st. Join with sl st to first sc. (16)

Weave in the beginning tail, and use the tail to fill in some of the gaps in the hdc2tog stitches.

Round 8-10: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (16)

Round 11-12: (in WHITE) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc using INVISIBLE STRIPES method. (16)

Stuff the shoe just enough to fill it out.

Round 13: (in RED) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc using INVISIBLE STRIPES method. (16)

Round 14: (in WHITE) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc using INVISIBLE STRIPES method. (16)

Round 15-32: Repeat Rounds 13-14 9 more times, creating RED and WHITE alternating stripes. (16)

Round 33: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog 8 times. Join with sl st to first st. (8)

Stuff the leg lightly.

Squeeze round together and align stitches. Insert hook through all 4 loops and work 1 sc. Repeat for the next 2 st. Fasten off and cut a long tail.

ARMS: (worked in seamed rounds)

Round 1: (in FISHERMEN) Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join with sl st to first sc. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc into each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st] 3 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (15)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 3 st, 1 sc2tog] 3 times. Join with sl st to first st. (12)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first st. (12)

Round 6: (in WHITE) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first st. (12)

Round 7-10: (in RED) Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first st. (12)

Round 11: Ch 1. Work [1 sc in each of next 4 st, 1 sc2tog] 2 times. Join with sl st to first st. (10)

Round 12-14: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first st. (10)

Round 15: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each of next 4 st, 1 sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 4 st. Join with sl st to first st. (9)

Round 16-17: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first st. (9)

Stuff the arm, lightly.

Squeeze round together and align stitches. Work 4 sc across to close off. Fasten off and cut a long tail.

NOSE: (worked in seamed rounds)

Round 1: (in FISHERMEN) Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join with sl st to first sc. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc into each st around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into next 3 st, 2 sc into next st] 3 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (15)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. (15)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work [1 sc into each of next 3 st, 1 sc2tog] 3 times. Join with sl st to first st. (12)

Stuff the nose.

Round 6: Ch 1. Work 1 sc2tog 6 times. Join with sl st to first st. (6)

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Pull yarn through last stitch. Sew yarn end into the front loop of each of the 6 st around. Pull tight to close the circle. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:

LEGS to BODY: The inner edge of each leg is attached approximately 6 rounds in front of the center point. The outside edge of each leg is attached between body Rounds 11 and 12, right where the red meets the white.

ARMS to BODY: Arms are attached on either side of the body, centered to the legs, at body Round 26.

NOSE to BODY: Nose is centered between the arms, with the side of the nose facing outwards. It is approximately attached at body Round 27, and pulled slightly downwards to attach at body Round 24.

HAT to BODY: Attach the hat at body Round 24 by the front of the gnome’s right arm. Sew right into the arm and around using a whip stitch. Hat is pulled down lower in the back, across the left arm and attached at body Round 24 by the front of the left arm. Lightly stuff hat to fill out the shape. Continue sewing up and around the nose and finish at the starting point. Fasten off, weave in the ends.

santa gnome assembly

BEARD: Cut 2 pieces of WHITE yarn, approximately 12” in length. Holding them together, tie to each stitch around the nose using a lark’s knot. Continue tying yarn to the body in concentric circles outward from the nose. You can leave as it, or separate the strands in the yarn to create a fuller beard. Trim to desired shape.

Scandinavian Santa Gnome

I love that this gnome is a bit fat and stodgy, has dangling legs, and is easy to squeeze. You can use him as a replacement for Elf on the Shelf – this scandinavian santa elf has real legs and real feet!

Scandinavian Santa Gnome

Check out my pattern shops on Craftsy and Etsy where you can purchase printable PDFs of my latest crochet patterns. These PDFs are formatted without comments or ads, and have instructional photos at the bottom for optional printing.

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28 Comments

  1. Kim

    I just finishethis gnome and it turned out so cute! Thank you for sharing this free pattern!

    Reply

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