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Learn Corner to Corner Crochet: Everything You Need to Know

by | Crochet, Tutorials

This post has been a long time coming, mostly because I’m hesitant about making videos, but now that I’ve got a few under my belt, I’m starting to see the appeal! After sharing my Zoodiac c2c graphghan squares, many of you have requested help on learning how to crochet c2c (corner to corner), so I’ve collected a whole bunch of information here to use as a resource. I think this is pretty much everything I know about how to c2c crochet, but if there’s something you feel is missing, just let me know! And if you find these videos and instructions helpful, please share with friends!

Everything You Need to Know to Learn C2C Crochet , includes videos, instructions and pictorials. |

Introduction to C2C Crochet

Ok, where to start? Corner to corner crochet, or c2c crochet, is working “tiles” in a bias instead of in straight rows or rounds. This makes it a great vehicle for following pixel graphs to create images. The world sort of becomes your oyster once you can crochet a graph! Corner to corner crochet can be square or a rectangle. I’m considering working some projects of different shapes actually, as long as they have straight sides (fractals, anyone?!).

  • These instructions are how I c2c crochet. There are many other tutorials and methods out there, all with their own slight differences.
  • I used an I hook and double crochets for my Zoodiacs squares, and each corner to corner “tile” is about 3/4 of an inch to an inch big, which means my 23 tile Zoodiacs square is large, 18 inches or more, and my blanket is HUGE. Using a smaller hook or a tighter tension can control the size of each tile. You can also adjust to use half double crochets for different sized tiles. Any smaller and I would consider tapestry crochet with single crochet stitches.

  • To finish off a square or rectangle, it’s nice to work single crochets evenly around the border with the background color. This makes it easier to add more elaborate borders or to join squares together. For consistency, I like working 2 single crochets into each square – 2 in the square, and 1 in the space between squares.
  • I use graph paper and Adobe Illustrator to create my graphs. You can also find tons of free project ideas by searching for Perler Bead graphs!
  • Fair warning – a graph with many colors means there’s lots of ends to weave in. I’ll show you a few tricks I use to avoid having extra ends, but just know it’s a lot of ends.
  • To help keep my yarn somewhat tangle-free, I like using my Modular Bobbin Holder to keep track of all my yarn colors. It consists of removable dowels on a wooden board so different colors can be switched around.



  • Yarn of your choice. I use worsted weight yarn, usually Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Loops and Threads Impeccables Solids.
  • A hook, of your choice. I love my Clover USA Amour hooks*.
  • The graph you’re making
  • Modular Bobbin Holder
  • Embroidery needle
  • Scissors

* denotes affiliate links


sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet

How to Start C2C Crochet

1st tile: Ch 3. Pinch the 3rd chain you made. Ch 3 more. Work 1 dc into the chain you’re pinching, which is the 4th chain from hook. Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 ch.

2nd row, 1st tile: Ch 3. Pinch the 3rd chain you made. Ch 3 more. Work 1 dc into the chain you’re pinching, which is the 4th chain from hook. Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 ch. Twist the two tiles, and then join to the first tile using a sl st into the ch 3 space.

2nd row, 2nd tile: Ch 2. Work 3 dc into chain space.

3rd row, 1st tile: Ch 3. Pinch the 3rd chain you made. Ch 3 more. Work 1 dc into the chain you’re pinching, which is the 4th chain from hook. Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 ch. Twist the previous rows, and then join to the last tile of the previous row using a sl st into the ch 3 space.

3rd row, all subsequent tiles: Ch 2. Work 3 dc into chain space.

This is the c2c increase, since you have more tiles in each subsequent row.

How to Change Colors and Carry Yarn

Now that you can start a c2c square or rectangle, you’re all set, if you want a big mono-colored blanket. But the whole fun of graphs is color!

To change color, work the new color yarn as the slip stitch when joining to the chain space. Then continue with ch 2, 3 dc in the chain space to create the new color tile.

I included a separate video to show how I carry yarn in my work and work over that carried yarn with my c2c tiles. All this so I can keep using the same active yarn and have less ends to weave in at the end.

In the video at the end of this post, where I create an entire project from start to finish, I show another way to hide yarn and work it into the c2c stitches.

How to Decrease C2C Crochet (aka The Light at the End of the Tunnel)

Once you pass the half way point on your square, you’ll start decreasing your c2c project, which means you will not longer be creating new tiles along a particular side. Instead, you’ll be working across the top of your previous tile to get to the next tile space. On a square project, you’ll increase and decrease at the same rate. On a rectangular project, you’ll increase at the same rate until you hit the 1 corner of the rectangle, then increasing on one side, while decreasing on the other. When you hit the next corner, you’ll start decreasing on both sides. In the future, I’d like to play with different combinations of increases and decreases to see what fun shapes I can come up with!

Once you’ve joined to the last tile with a sl st, ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 st across the top of the previous tile. Join to ch space with sl st. Work tile as normal – ch 2, 3 dc in chain space.

How to Weave in Ends for C2C Crochet

Oh, the worst part of it all. Actually, it’s not bad, because this is when you really start seeing your square come to life instead of it being a mess of loose yarn ends everywhere.

I fasten off all my ends with little slip knots by pulling the yarn through the last loop, and it’s held together pretty well in all of my projects. Then using an embroidery needle, weave the ends through the bottom of the 3 dc cluster, where the yarn is densest. I make about 4 passes back and forth through that cluster before cutting the end. Sometimes, there’s not cluster right where the yarn ends, so I weave in anywhere I can until I get to a cluster. In the end, it all cleans up pretty seamlessly.

You can also use the ends to clean up the actual c2c itself. Sometimes when creating diagonals with different colors, some tiles that are supposed to be “connected” look disconnected. I found that to be the case in my Tiger Zoodiac square – the stripes were a pain! In that case, leave a longer tail, and then sew the tail in a way to cover & hide any mistakes, connect 2 squares that look a bit separated or fix anything else you want fixed.

A Whole C2C Project, Start to Finish

The above tutorials showed different steps in the creation of a c2c project, but there’s nothing quite like just seeing someone work a whole project, start to finish. So I’m sharing a rather long video of me making this patriotic c2c square… coaster.

Sample c2c square

What you’ll see in the video:

          • how I set up my bobbin holder
          • read the graph
          • start the first few tiles
          • change colors
          • make decisions on whether to carry the yarn or cut the yarn
          • keep my yarns straight
          • increase, decrease tiles
          • fasten off
          • work the single crochet border

I think that’s it! I hope this is helpful to you if you are looking to learn c2c crochet. Here are a few c2c projects to get your creative juices going:

The Zoodiacs Collection

The zoodiacs collection

C2C Chevron Baby Blanket


CityStreets Mapghan Squares


If you have questions, leave a comment and either I or someone else from our little community can try to help. You can also share your projects with me on Facebook or Instagram!


  1. Anna

    Hi. Thank you so much for posting this and giving us a tutorial.
    I was just admiring the Zodiac Afghan you made and it inspired me to make one just like it.
    I was looking at the various tiles. I could not notice the places where you switched colors. You know if you make a slip stitch and add a new color you can tell where that is. I was just wondering how you were able to mask that in your zodiac tiles?
    Thank you once again.

  2. Dawn

    I have done 2 c2c squares now. Each are 25 squares for length and width. When I am done they aren’t a perfect square. It’s like they are pulling towards the corners. Normal? Will it fix when I join them all? I see other squares and they are perfect squares. Help !!!!

  3. Kay Gauthier

    I purchased a pattern from Annie’s Catalog, but they have no one that can help me with the pattern. It’s called Baby Cycles and I understand the increase an decrease of the pattern from from row 56 to 70, I need to keep 56 blocks in each row. Is there any way you could help me with this? I can send you a line by email to see the pattern.


  4. Holly

    This is a really thorough, helpful tutorial, especially the videos. Thanks so much for all the work you’ve put into this! Thanks to you I’m ready to tackle my first c2c project!

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  6. michelle

    I just watched your videos because I’d ;ove to make something for on the bed aswell. I did get confused because in the first video you end your squares on the top left corner but in the video on how to change colors, your stitch starts in the middle eventhough there are the same amount of squares you ended with/began with.

  7. Becca

    I have a pattern that requires me to add a new color at the edge of the piece when I need to chain 6. How do I go about securing that color? I can’t crochet over it like normal.

    Also it’s one single square that doesn’t continue in the next row if that matters.

  8. angela metz

    Love the site! I would like to ask a question! My c2c has a couple of holes, I cut to close when I was weaving, I am wondering if there is an easy way to fix the holes? I searched all over the internet and am having a really hard time trying to find tutorials

  9. Sally Mc Menamin

    Hi love your tutorial have finished me c2c but it’s not square I’ve done something wrong on the decrease but can’t figure what help please

  10. Janie

    When make a baby quilt I did five roll gray then change colors three roll then back to gray is that a okay .

  11. C Wright

    If you end the project with 31 hdc blocks how do you do a 81 sc on one side border?

    • ChiWei

      The hdc blocks take up more length than an sc. I recommend working 2 single crochets into each square and 1 in the space between squares. Hope this helps!


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