Crochet Owl Pouch with Pattern

UPDATE: I am now offering a printable PDF version of this Crochet Owl Pouch pattern for sale on Craftsy. The PDF  does not have ads or comments, and has the photos at the bottom for easier printing.

Owls are all the rage right now, flying all over Pinterest like that scene from Harry Potter where they land on every available space in the yard.  Well, I wanted to get in on it, but still do something a little different, so here’s my contribution to the owl trend – my very own crocheted owl pouch.

These pocket darlings can be made in a variety of colors and patterns and can hold any little thing your heart desires.  This is a free pattern, so feel free to sell your finished creations.  However, please do not sell or distribute the pattern in any way, and if you can, link back to this post in your listing so your clients know where you got your inspiration!  Thanks!

Owl Pouch

Supplies:

Cotton or Worsted Weight yarn
G size hook
tapestry needle, scissors
small button
9mm animal eyes

Note: This is not crocheted in a spiral; it is crocheted in individual rounds.  Joining rounds normally gives a moving seam, so I chose to join my rounds using the No-Cut Join method as described by Planet June for a straight seam.  The instructions here will include a short description, but head over to Planet June to see a full tutorial and videos on this joining method.

The instructions below are to create the owl shown above.

Body:

Round 1: Start with a magic circle.  Work 6 SC into ring and join. (6 stitches)

Round 2: CH 1.  Work 2 SC into each stitch.  Joining: Remove hook from last SC.  Insert hook into first SC from back to front.  Add loop from the last stitch onto the hook and pull through tightly.  (12 stitches)

Round 3: CH 1.  Work 1 SC into current stitch (the one where you joined), then 2 SC into next stitch.  *Work 1 SC into next stitch, followed by 2 SC in next stitch* around.  Repeat no-cut joining method. (18 stitches)

Round 4: CH 1. Work 1 SC into current stitch, and 1 SC into next stitch.  Then work 2 SC into next stitch.  *Work  1 SC into each of next 2 stitches, followed by 2 SC in next stitch* around. Join. (24 stitches)

Round 5: CH 1. Work 1 SC into current stitch, and 1 SC into next 2 stitches.  Then work 2 SC into next stitch.  *Work 1 SC into each of next 3 stitches, followed by 2 SC in next stitch* around. Join. (30 stitches)

Round 6: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch (where you joined the previous round). (30 stitches)

At the end of Round 6, change colors to create stripes.  To join new yarn, I used Planet June’s Invisible Join method: after the last stitch, cut yarn leaving a tail, and pull tail through stitch.  Insert hook into the 2nd stitch in the round from back to front under both bars and pull tail through.  Then insert hook into last stitch in round from back to front through only the back loop and pull tail through.  (It’s easier to watch the video.)

Round 7-8: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches). Change yarn color.

Round 9-10: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches). Change yarn color.

Round 11-12: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches). Change yarn color.

Round 13-15: CH 1. Work 1 SC into each of 30 stitches around, starting with the current stitch. (30 stitches).  Join.

Row 16: CH 1. Work 1 SC into next 15 stitches. CH 1. Turn.

Row 17: Starting with the 2nd chain from the hook, SC 2 stitches together (sc2tog). Work 1 SC into each stitch in the row (11 stitches) until there are 2 stitches left.  SC2tog the last two stitches.  CH 1. Turn. (13 stitches)

Row 18: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 9 stitches. SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (11 stitches)

Row 19: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 7 stitches.  SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (9 stitches)

Row 20: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 5 stitches.  SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (7 stitches)

Row 21: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into each of next 3 stitches.  SC2tog last two stitches. CH 1. Turn. (5 stitches)

Row 22: Starting with the 2nd chain from hook, sc2tog, then work 1 SC into next stitch.  SC2tog last two stitches. Do not turn. (3 stitches).

Border: Work slip stitches down side of flap, around back of pouch opening and back up other side of flap.  Make last slip stitch in the 3rd stitch of Row 22.  CH 5.  Slip stitch into 1st stitch of Row 22.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Eyes: (make 2)

Round 1: Start with a magic circle. Work 6 SC into ring.  Join. (6 stitches)

Round 2: CH 1. Work 2 SC into each stitch around.  Join. (12 stitches)

Fasten off with long tail.

Finishing:

Push plastic eyes through a point between the 1st and 2nd rows of the eye piece (not through center of circle).  Using the tail and a tapestry needle, attach eyes so that plastic eye is pushed through the body, centered and between Rounds 12 and 13, counting from the bottom.  Push backing of plastic eye on securely.

Attach button to the center of the back of the body between Rounds 11 and 12, counting from the bottom.

Using a tapestry needle, create a beak centered right below the eyes.

Cut strands of leftover yarn and create the tufts using a lark’s knot where the body meets the flap.

If you have any questions, leave a comment and I will try to answer them as they come up.  Please look through the comments and see if your question has already been asked.  I’d love to see your creations – leave a link on my Facebook page!

For this project, I used Lily Sugar’n Cream Yarn (affliate link).  I love this yarn, as you can tell from some of my other projects and patterns!

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