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Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan

by | All Designs, Crochet, Fall, Free Patterns, Garments, My Favorites, Spring, Summer

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

A couple of months ago, I was introduced to this this Lularoe phenomenon, and have been purchasing patterned dresses and skirts for work (and play). I noticed pretty quickly that I was depending on my one cashmere cardigan whenever I wore anything even slightly fitted to cover those, well, areas I felt would be better covered. So when I was given the opportunity to work with We Are Knitters, I figured this was the perfect time for me to get into the wearables game with this Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, especially since I already dipped my toes in the water with M’s Purple Princess Dress. Now, it was time to make something nice for mommy!

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I admit I’m pretty clueless when it comes to making clothing because gosh, when have I ever had to think about it. I scrolled through a ton of Google image searches for cardigans and pulled all the characteristics that I liked together to make a cardigan for myself, as a complement to my Lularoe wardrobe. That meant something large and loose, not lacy or flowery, but still having some airiness to it, with a strong collar and border – no petals or shells for me (just not really my style).

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

We Are Knitters provided me with balls of their Khaki Cotton Wool, and what a dream it was to work with! This 100% Pima Cotton yarn is amazing and unlike anything I’ve ever worked with before. It’s definitely different in feel and luxury than the cotton yarn I used for my Jellyfish and other projects! Each Cotton Wool ball is 100g for 212 m (~232 yds), and I used 6 and a half balls for this cardigan. The finished cardigan drapes beautifully, has a nice solid weight to it, yet still feels so light and cool.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I usually write notes for my patterns as I go, but for this one, I really just winged it. Even before I knew what motif I wanted to use, I knew I wanted to experiment with the construction of the garment. Stephanie’s Granite Cape made me realize that a kimono or basic cardigan can be broken down into basic blocks seamed together, so I wanted to see if I could build the garment with as little piecing together as possible. I had 2 questions I wanted to answer:

  1. Could I build the whole body from side to side without ever fastening off? As long as the math worked out and the rows were turned at the right time, it should work. The garment was also all one color, so I could keep connecting balls of yarn to my existing work, which eliminated the hassle of a lot of ends.
  2. Was there a motif that would look good sideways? Lakeside Loops’ kimono cardigan reminded me that diamonds are 1. beautiful and 2. will look just as good upright or sideways and 3. look like argyles, which is a favorite pattern of mine, so win win win! Using a simple diamond motif also allowed me focus on the construction of the garment and not on counting complex math sequences.

diamond-cardigan-motif

The diamond itself is created by working gaps into sequences of double crochet stitches, but a row needs to have a double crochet stitch at the beginning and a double crochet stitch at the end – you can’t start or end a row on a chain space! It took me a few tries to draw out the repeating motif, and I made a single diamond swatch to see if my math worked out. The widest point of the diamond is 11 stitches, plus the 2 chains, plus the stitch at the beginning and the stitch at the end, equals 15 stitches, but the end stitch also doubles as the start for the next diamond. So, the motif is 14 stitches + 1. My starting chain, or foundation row, needed to be a multiple of 14, plus the extra end stitch. Drawing out several rows of the motif allowed me to check my work and establish a rhythm.

Now all I needed to do was figure out when to end the flap, make the back piece, and start a new flap. There was a lot of trying on pieces of crochet in front of the mirror. My husband thought I was crazy. Once the body was finished, I realized I could seam straight up the side and go right into working the sleeve without cutting yarn. Below is a simple diagram showing the basics of the construction.

cardigan-layout

Again, to get the full pattern in the sleeve, I needed a multiple of 14, plus 1 extra stitch. Depending on where that lined up with the rest of the body, I would continue the diamond motif into the sleeve, so it looks like a solid continuing pattern.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I admit I got a little crazy when my counts didn’t line up, usually because I had counted to 150 and forgot where I was, or someone talked to me while I was counting (so frustrating!). Using a stitch marker helped a bit. So did counting and recounting and recounting again, forwards, backwards and side to side. Overall, it was worth it though, as everything did end up coming together perfectly aligned and symmetrical!

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I’ve included several pattern notes before the instructions themselves, so I don’t wander too far off the track later explaining all the little things I worked through. Hopefully these notes can help answer some of your questions. You can also leave a comment so I, or other readers, can help out as well!

If you’d like to print this pattern, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free and comment-free PDF of the Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan at Craftsy (US readers) or Etsy (international readers). The PDF is formatted to include the full pattern and pattern notes, with instructional photos at the end for easy printing.

Supplies

Abbreviations

  • sl st – slip stitch
  • ch – chain stitch
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet

Pattern Notes

  • I received a 5mm crochet hook from We Are Knitters. I found that it was closer in size to the 4.5 mm Clover hook than the 5mm Clover hook. Due to the way I was holding my hook for this project (pencil method, instead of my usual knife method), I chose to work with the Clover hook out of comfort.
  • The whole idea of the construction is to create this U-shaped piece, then fold the flaps down – the flaps are the front of your cardigan. Join the flap and the back body together with a seam. The sleeve is crocheted in rows, and then joined with a seam under the arm. The same is repeated on the other side.
  • The chain 2 at the start of rows do not count as stitches.
  • Each chain 1 space created should be treated as 1 stitch.
  • For the pattern, I used both the foundation half double crochet stitch and a foundation double crochet stitch.
  • The body seam leads directly into the sleeves seams. When attaching the trim, make sure to match up the seams on both the trim and the sleeve.
  • The stitch marker is useful to indicate where to join your chain stitches back into the body on Row 38, as well as when you seam up the sides.
  • Use a whip stitch to seam the sleeve and a mattress stitch for all other seams. You can see a video of the mattress stitch here.
  • Here’s a great method of joining yarn, especially when it’s one color. The knots are incredibly small and can be tucked into the stitches almost invisibly.
  • To seam up the second (left) side, attach a ball of yarn using this join method to your beginning tail – now you don’t need to weave in the beginning tail nor attach a standing stitch for the seam!
  • I’ve included the number of rows for the ribbed trim, but that number could change depending on how tightly you sew to the body. What I did, because I didn’t know the final number, was to leave a very long beginning tail, and use the beginning tail to sew onto the body. That way, I could work my ribbing on one end, and sew into the body on the other end, simultaneously. As I sewed, I could see if I needed to crochet more rows of ribbing.
  • Be sure to count your diamonds and stitches as you go! It’s easy to drop a stitch without realizing it.
  • This pattern is sized for me, but it’s pretty generous in size. If you do need to alter the size a bit, remember to start with multiples of 14 + 1.

diamond-cardigan-sizing-1

Sizing

Update: Several readers have asked about sizing and how to alter it for a different size. Here are some recommendations for making adjustments.

  • A 4×4 inch swatch = 14 stitches and 9 rows
  • My garment came out to 30 inches from shoulder to bottom of trim, 29 inches wide when laid out flat, and 53 inches around.
  • I’m 5’8″ and usually wear a size Small (depending on the brand), but this cardigan hangs pretty loose on me, so I’d say this is closer to a Medium in size.
  • For the length – always work in multiples of 14, + 1. Right now, I start with a foundation of 197 stitches = 14 * 14, + 1.
  • For the width – work the 197 stitches in as many rows as needed to reach desired width of one side of the cardigan. I suggest increasing the original pattern by 2 rows at a time so that you’re still working in the same direction as as the original pattern when it comes time to switch to the back panel. Work the back panel (98 stitches) for as wide as you need the front of your cardigan apart, again adjusting by 2 rows at a time. The other side of the cardigan should be the mirror of the first side. If you always adjust 2 rows at a time, you should be positioned to seam up the side, just as in the original pattern. Seam up however much you’d like, but leave 14x+1 stitches free to work the sleeves.
  • For the sleeve length, work as many rows as needed to reach desired length of sleeve before fastening off.
  • For the trim, create as long a strip of ribbing as you need, using the tips above to create the ribbing and sew to the cardigan as you go.

Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan Instructions

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

BODY:

Row 0: Work 197 foundation double crochet stitch. Turn.

Row 1: Ch 2. Starting from 3rd chain from hook, work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (197)

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (197)

Row 3: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (197)

Row 4: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (197)

Row 5: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (197)

Row 6: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Turn. (197)

Row 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (197)

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (197)

Row 9: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (197)

Row 10: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (197)

Rows 11-20: Repeat Rows 1-10.

Row 21-23: Repeat Rows 1-3.

Row 24: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 25: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 26: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 12 st. Turn. (98)

Row 27: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 28: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 29: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Row 30: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Row 31: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (98)

Row 32: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Row 33: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Rows 34-37: Repeat Rows 24-27.

Row 38: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Ch 99. Turn.

Diamond Cardigan - Creating the next flap | www.1dogwoof.com

Row 39: Ch 2. Starting in 3rd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (197)

Row 40: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (197)

Rows 41-50: Repeat Rows 1-10.

Rows 51-60: Repeat Rows 1-10.

Row 61: Work 1 dc in each stitch across.

Fold the flap down to the line up with the body in order to work the seam. Working through all 4 loops of the double crochet stitches (from Row 61), work 1 sl st in each of next 63 stitches.

Diamond Cardigan, joining seams | www.1dogwoof.com

For the 64th stitch and onwards, work only on one side of the seam (do not join the seam together). This is the beginning of your sleeve.

Diamond Cardigan, Arm Swatch

RIGHT SLEEVE:

Row 1: Insert hook into the 64th stitch, draw up a loop, Ch 2. Work 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 3: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 4: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 5: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (71)

Row 6: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 9: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 10: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 1 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Turn. (71)

Row 11: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 12: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Cut a long tail for working the seam. Fasten a knot to secure the last stitch, then use the tail to sew the seam together, ending at the armpit. Fasten off, and weave in ends.

LEFT SEAM:

Working through all 4 loops of the double crochet stitches (from Row 61), work 1 sl st in each of next 63 stitches.

For the 64th stitch and onwards, work only on one side of the seam (do not join the seam together). This is the beginning of your sleeve.

LEFT SLEEVE:

Row 1: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 3: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 4: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (71)

Row 5: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 6: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 9: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 1 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Turn. (71)

Row 10: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 11: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 12: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Cut a long tail for working the seam. Fasten a knot to secure the last stitch, then use the tail to sew the seam together, ending at the armpit. Fasten off, and weave in ends.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

SLEEVE TRIM:

Row 1: Work 6 foundation half double crochet stitch. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Starting from 3rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, back loops only.

Rows 3-44: Repeat Row 2, 42 times, for a total of 44 rows. Join the first and last hdc row by working 6 sl st across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the trim evenly to the sleeve using a mattress stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

BOTTOM TRIM:

Row 1: Work 6 foundation hdc stitches. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Starting from 3rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, back loops only.

Rows 3-145: Repeat Row 2, 143 times, for a total of 145 rows.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the trim evenly to the body’s bottom border using a mattress stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

COLLAR TRIM:

Row 1: Work 8 foundation hdc stitches. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Starting from 4rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, back loops only.

Rows 3-178: Repeat Row 2, 176 times, for a total of 178 rows.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the trim evenly to the body’s collar (up one side, across the back, down the other side) using a mattress stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

Woohoo! You’re done! 

Because I take all my pictures myself, I did a little selfie photo shoot, and had a bit of fun in front of the camera while the kids played downstairs. It was a little bit of silly me time.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

Our Bay Area weather never gets too hot, and it always cools off considerably in the evenings, so a cardigan like this is perfect for date nights walking around town. I’ve also worn it to work without feeling too fancy in lace or flowers or shells, but just nice enough even over a tshirt and jeans, AND it wards off the crazy air conditioning in the office. If it didn’t take so long for me to finish it, I’d be tempted to make it in other colors, just to use this scrumptious yarn again!

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

If you make this cardigan, I’d love to see your finished creations! You can share pics with me on Facebook (OneDogWoof) and Instagram (@1dogwoof), where I’ll occasionally re-share your work with everyone.

I received product from We Are Knitters for this project and post. The pattern, all notes, instructions, photos and opinions are 100% my own. 

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Please be respectful and do not sell or distribute this pattern in any way, especially as your own. Instead, share the original blog post link! You can sell finished products made from this pattern by giving credit to One Dog Woof as the pattern designer and linking to the blog post. If you have any questions regarding distribution or translation of this pattern, please see my Terms of Use. Thank you for your consideration!

70 Comments

  1. Debra

    You are so talented and I love your work. I’m looking forward to making this sweater. How would you classify the level of difficulty of this project?

    Reply
  2. Juli

    This is absolutely adorable. I love it. I’ve been crocheting for 45 years but have NEVER been brave enough to try clothing until now. This looks doable, I’m going to give it a try. Thank you for all your work and pattern making skill sharing.

    Reply
  3. Denise

    THANK YOU! I too have been bitten by the LuLaRoe bug, and have been looking for something fun to throw on top of my usual skirt-n-shirt combo. Can’t wait to work this up!

    Reply
  4. Susan Smith

    Hi. I have a question on the “left seam and sleeve” section. The instructions say to work through all 4 loops of the double crochet st from Row 61. My left seam is on Row 0 and doesn’t have the 4 loops referred to in the instructions, so I’m a little confused. Am I seaming in the right place? Do I use the same slip stitch method as the right seam and sleeve (which I have already completed)?

    I’m so close to completing my first crochet project since I was in sixth grade! (a loooong time ago). I hate the thought that I messed up somewhere along the line.

    Thanks for sharing this beautiful pattern.

    Reply
  5. Susan smith

    Hi. I am confused about the instructions for the left seam and sleeve. The instructions say to work through all 4 loops of the double crochet st from Row 61. My seam is on Row 0 and there aren’t 4 loops to slip stitch through. Not sure what to do

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Hi Susan, you want to fold the cardigan down and seam it. You should get 4 loops when you fold the piece in half, so that you’re working through 2 pieces of crochet. The left and right seams should be the same. Hope that helps!

      Reply
      • Susan

        Thanks for replying so quickly. Yes.. I seamed the right side and worked the right sleeve with no issues. So for the left seam I have to start with a new thread? The bottom of my left seam is at the beginning foundation stitches of Row 0. There are only two loops to sew through. Maybe I did the initial fold incorrectly?

  6. Sandra Kalsic

    I love all the extra pictures illustrating so much of the pattern. Thanks !

    Reply
  7. Erica

    Hello all the way from South Africa, love the Cardigan but can you maybe tell me how i increase to fit a Size 2x. i would really like to make it but stuck on the increase of foundation chain and rows

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Hi Erica, the notes in the post give some direction on how to do the math to increase to larger sizes. I’m sorry I don’t have all the math already worked out for this design. Foundation double crochets are easy to increase, since you just keep working the same stitch until you get the length you want.

      Reply
  8. Leticia

    Hi!
    Thanks so much for the pattern, it’s beautiful and very easy to follow.
    One question I don’t understand:
    On collar trim, row 2, why do you start on 4th chain from hook, instead of 3rd one, like on the other trims?

    Thank you!
    Cheers

    Reply
    • Monica Bishop

      If you are all the way to the trim could you please explain row 39 where it says to join to the body ? Several have asked this question & haven’t gotten an answer ! Please & thank you !

      Reply
      • ChiWei

        Row 39 is the same as Row 9. Once you’ve made the chains to get you back to 197 sts, you’ll work the row just like any other full row. I tried to clarify that somewhere in the middle is where you’ll make the transition from the front of the cardigan to the back of the cardigan, but as it seems to confuse people, I’ve simplified the post to show that Row 39 is really just a repeat of Row 9 in the diamond pattern. I hope that helps!

    • ChiWei

      I’m guessing it’s a typo, and I’ll have to take a look! Thanks!

      Reply
  9. Joyce Raiti

    Hi, Chiwei – I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE this pattern. I’ve been crocheting for many years, but I usually make afghans and throws. But when I saw this pattern, I said “This is so pretty, I’ve got to make one for me.”

    All is going fine until Row 39. Looking at the photos, it looks like the Row 39 stitches are worked in the 99 chains at the end of Row 38? But then I get confused about: Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. (Join to the main body after the 4th dc).??

    Thanks for your help.

    Joyce

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Hi Joyce, yes, Row 39 is worked into the 99 chains at the end of Row 38, and the stitch pattern is the same as Row 9. You’ll work the row just like any other full row. I didn’t realize that the extra note about joining to the main body would be confusing, and I’ve removed that statement. You should work Row 39 just like Row 9, as if the chain stitches were the previous row. I hope that helps!

      Reply
  10. Nancy Carson

    The Second Panel: I assume I follow same as First panel?

    Thanks much. Love your pattern.

    Nancy Carson
    La Pine, Oregon

    Reply
  11. Angela Cheatom

    Hi and how are you? By any chance have you considered making a video of this summer diamonds kimono cardigan from start to finish? It is a lovely cardigan. If so please inform me.

    Reply
  12. Sandra Hand

    As I am allergic to wool and don’t want to use cotton, can u suggest a substitute acrylic yarn plus weight to use for this beautiful kimono? I am so anxious to make it. Thank u.

    Reply
  13. Margot

    Love your patern! Could someone please help me how to do row 39??? I reallifesoap don’t understand we’re to attach to body????????????

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Row 39 is the same as Row 9. Once you’ve made the chains to get you back to 197 sts, you’ll work the row just like any other full row. I tried to clarify that somewhere in the middle is where you’ll make the transition from the front of the cardigan to the back of the cardigan, but as it seems to confuse people, I’ve simplified the post to show that Row 39 is really just a repeat of Row 9 in the diamond pattern. I hope that helps!

      Reply
  14. Maria Sanchez

    Please please explain row 39!! I can’t keep going with your beautiful pattern until you do :(. Thank you!!

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Hi Maria,

      Row 39 is the same as Row 9. Once you’ve made the chains to get you back to 197 sts, you’ll work the row just like any other full row. I tried to clarify that somewhere in the middle is where you’ll make the transition from the front of the cardigan to the back of the cardigan, but as it seems to confuse people, I’ve simplified the post to show that Row 39 is really just a repeat of Row 9 in the diamond pattern. I hope that helps!

      Reply
  15. Adriana

    Hi,
    Great! Thank you. I shall try to do it myself.
    Question: the skirt you’re wearing in the pictures you’ve made it yoursefl?

    Reply
  16. Hotmail login

    very good. Thank you for sharing!.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

    Reply
  17. Monica Bishop

    As several have ask about row 39 & still haven’t gotten a reply I’m stuck & needing to finish this for my Mom’s birthday! Could you please explain how you join to the body? Thank you !

    Reply
  18. sts login

    It’s great that you are getting thoughts from this paragraph as well as from our dialogue made here.

    Reply
  19. Susan

    Hi Chiwei!
    I Love Your pattern!
    I’m currently your Diamonds Kimono working with Willow Summer yarn in crow color for a birthday gift for my sister-in-law. I wanted to comment how easy your pattern is to read and follow! I Love how you were able to “corresponded” consecutive repeats with the last digit of “repeat rows 1-10” with rows 11-20, 41-50 and 51-60. I was worried I was going to need to use 2 counting devices to help me follow along, but nope, the last digit is the same. It’s perfect!
    Thank You for sharing your inspiration and creativity!
    Kind Regards and Many Thanks!

    Reply
  20. Susan

    Hi, again,Chiwei!
    I finished your Kimono diamonds cardigan for my sister-in-law and working on another for myself now, :-), because I loved how it turned out!
    I did have to repeat row 1 for row 61 to make it symmetrical to the initial starting side. Then I continued on with row 61 as row 62.
    Thank you again for sharing your Awesome patterns and inspiration.
    Many Thanks!

    Reply
    • Tanya

      Yes it needs to be corrected – row 61 rep row 1, row 62 DC across. I love this cardigan – favorite pattern of any wearable crochet I’ve ever made 🙂 I’m making my third one – this time using Lion Brand coboo yarn and the drape is so nice.

      Reply

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