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Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan

by | All Designs, Crochet, Fall, Free Patterns, Garments, My Favorites, Spring, Summer

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

A couple of months ago, I was introduced to this this Lularoe phenomenon, and have been purchasing patterned dresses and skirts for work (and play). I noticed pretty quickly that I was depending on my one cashmere cardigan whenever I wore anything even slightly fitted to cover those, well, areas I felt would be better covered. So when I was given the opportunity to work with We Are Knitters, I figured this was the perfect time for me to get into the wearables game with this Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, especially since I already dipped my toes in the water with M’s Purple Princess Dress. Now, it was time to make something nice for mommy!

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I admit I’m pretty clueless when it comes to making clothing because gosh, when have I ever had to think about it. I scrolled through a ton of Google image searches for cardigans and pulled all the characteristics that I liked together to make a cardigan for myself, as a complement to my Lularoe wardrobe. That meant something large and loose, not lacy or flowery, but still having some airiness to it, with a strong collar and border – no petals or shells for me (just not really my style).

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

We Are Knitters provided me with balls of their Khaki Cotton Wool, and what a dream it was to work with! This 100% Pima Cotton yarn is amazing and unlike anything I’ve ever worked with before. It’s definitely different in feel and luxury than the cotton yarn I used for my Jellyfish and other projects! Each Cotton Wool ball is 100g for 212 m (~232 yds), and I used 6 and a half balls for this cardigan. The finished cardigan drapes beautifully, has a nice solid weight to it, yet still feels so light and cool.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I usually write notes for my patterns as I go, but for this one, I really just winged it. Even before I knew what motif I wanted to use, I knew I wanted to experiment with the construction of the garment. Stephanie’s Granite Cape made me realize that a kimono or basic cardigan can be broken down into basic blocks seamed together, so I wanted to see if I could build the garment with as little piecing together as possible. I had 2 questions I wanted to answer:

  1. Could I build the whole body from side to side without ever fastening off? As long as the math worked out and the rows were turned at the right time, it should work. The garment was also all one color, so I could keep connecting balls of yarn to my existing work, which eliminated the hassle of a lot of ends.
  2. Was there a motif that would look good sideways? Lakeside Loops’ kimono cardigan reminded me that diamonds are 1. beautiful and 2. will look just as good upright or sideways and 3. look like argyles, which is a favorite pattern of mine, so win win win! Using a simple diamond motif also allowed me focus on the construction of the garment and not on counting complex math sequences.

diamond-cardigan-motif

The diamond itself is created by working gaps into sequences of double crochet stitches, but a row needs to have a double crochet stitch at the beginning and a double crochet stitch at the end – you can’t start or end a row on a chain space! It took me a few tries to draw out the repeating motif, and I made a single diamond swatch to see if my math worked out. The widest point of the diamond is 11 stitches, plus the 2 chains, plus the stitch at the beginning and the stitch at the end, equals 15 stitches, but the end stitch also doubles as the start for the next diamond. So, the motif is 14 stitches + 1. My starting chain, or foundation row, needed to be a multiple of 14, plus the extra end stitch. Drawing out several rows of the motif allowed me to check my work and establish a rhythm.

Now all I needed to do was figure out when to end the flap, make the back piece, and start a new flap. There was a lot of trying on pieces of crochet in front of the mirror. My husband thought I was crazy. Once the body was finished, I realized I could seam straight up the side and go right into working the sleeve without cutting yarn. Below is a simple diagram showing the basics of the construction.

cardigan-layout

Again, to get the full pattern in the sleeve, I needed a multiple of 14, plus 1 extra stitch. Depending on where that lined up with the rest of the body, I would continue the diamond motif into the sleeve, so it looks like a solid continuing pattern.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I admit I got a little crazy when my counts didn’t line up, usually because I had counted to 150 and forgot where I was, or someone talked to me while I was counting (so frustrating!). Using a stitch marker helped a bit. So did counting and recounting and recounting again, forwards, backwards and side to side. Overall, it was worth it though, as everything did end up coming together perfectly aligned and symmetrical!

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FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

I’ve included several pattern notes before the instructions themselves, so I don’t wander too far off the track later explaining all the little things I worked through. Hopefully these notes can help answer some of your questions. You can also leave a comment so I, or other readers, can help out as well!

If you’d like to print this pattern, you can purchase an inexpensive, ad-free and comment-free PDF of the Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan at Craftsy (US readers) or Etsy (international readers). The PDF is formatted to include the full pattern and pattern notes, with instructional photos at the end for easy printing.

Supplies

Abbreviations

  • sl st – slip stitch
  • ch – chain stitch
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet

Pattern Notes

  • I received a 5mm crochet hook from We Are Knitters. I found that it was closer in size to the 4.5 mm Clover hook than the 5mm Clover hook. Due to the way I was holding my hook for this project (pencil method, instead of my usual knife method), I chose to work with the Clover hook out of comfort.
  • The whole idea of the construction is to create this U-shaped piece, then fold the flaps down – the flaps are the front of your cardigan. Join the flap and the back body together with a seam. The sleeve is crocheted in rows, and then joined with a seam under the arm. The same is repeated on the other side.
  • The chain 2 at the start of rows do not count as stitches.
  • Each chain 1 space created should be treated as 1 stitch.
  • For the pattern, I used both the foundation half double crochet stitch and a foundation double crochet stitch.
  • The body seam leads directly into the sleeves seams. When attaching the trim, make sure to match up the seams on both the trim and the sleeve.
  • The stitch marker is useful to indicate where to join your chain stitches back into the body on Row 38, as well as when you seam up the sides.
  • Use a whip stitch to seam the sleeve and a mattress stitch for all other seams. You can see a video of the mattress stitch here.
  • Here’s a great method of joining yarn, especially when it’s one color. The knots are incredibly small and can be tucked into the stitches almost invisibly.
  • To seam up the second (left) side, attach a ball of yarn using this join method to your beginning tail – now you don’t need to weave in the beginning tail nor attach a standing stitch for the seam!
  • I’ve included the number of rows for the ribbed trim, but that number could change depending on how tightly you sew to the body. What I did, because I didn’t know the final number, was to leave a very long beginning tail, and use the beginning tail to sew onto the body. That way, I could work my ribbing on one end, and sew into the body on the other end, simultaneously. As I sewed, I could see if I needed to crochet more rows of ribbing.
  • Be sure to count your diamonds and stitches as you go! It’s easy to drop a stitch without realizing it.
  • This pattern is sized for me, but it’s pretty generous in size. If you do need to alter the size a bit, remember to start with multiples of 14 + 1.

diamond-cardigan-sizing-1

Sizing

Update: Several readers have asked about sizing and how to alter it for a different size. Here are some recommendations for making adjustments.

  • A 4×4 inch swatch = 14 stitches and 9 rows
  • My garment came out to 30 inches from shoulder to bottom of trim, 29 inches wide when laid out flat, and 53 inches around.
  • I’m 5’8″ and usually wear a size Small (depending on the brand), but this cardigan hangs pretty loose on me, so I’d say this is closer to a Medium in size.
  • For the length – always work in multiples of 14, + 1. Right now, I start with a foundation of 197 stitches = 14 * 14, + 1.
  • For the width – work the 197 stitches in as many rows as needed to reach desired width of one side of the cardigan. I suggest increasing the original pattern by 2 rows at a time so that you’re still working in the same direction as as the original pattern when it comes time to switch to the back panel. Work the back panel (98 stitches) for as wide as you need the front of your cardigan apart, again adjusting by 2 rows at a time. The other side of the cardigan should be the mirror of the first side. If you always adjust 2 rows at a time, you should be positioned to seam up the side, just as in the original pattern. Seam up however much you’d like, but leave 14x+1 stitches free to work the sleeves.
  • For the sleeve length, work as many rows as needed to reach desired length of sleeve before fastening off.
  • For the trim, create as long a strip of ribbing as you need, using the tips above to create the ribbing and sew to the cardigan as you go.

Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan Instructions

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

BODY

Row 0: Work 197 foundation double crochet stitch. Turn.

Row 1: Ch 2. Starting from 3rd chain from hook, work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (197)

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (197)

Row 3: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (197)

Row 4: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (197)

Row 5: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (197)

Row 6: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Turn. (197)

Row 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (197)

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (197)

Row 9: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (197)

Row 10: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (197)

Rows 11-20: Repeat Rows 1-10.

Row 21-23: Repeat Rows 1-3.

Row 24: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 25: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 26: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 12 st. Turn. (98)

Row 27: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 28: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (98)

Row 29: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Row 30: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Row 31: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (98)

Row 32: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Row 33: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (98)

Rows 34-37: Repeat Rows 24-27.

Row 38: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 6 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Ch 99. Turn.

Diamond Cardigan - Creating the next flap | www.1dogwoof.com

Row 39: Ch 2. Starting in 3rd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (197)

Row 40: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 13 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (197)

Rows 41-50: Repeat Rows 1-10.

Rows 51-60: Repeat Rows 1-10.

Row 61: Work 1 dc in each stitch across.

Fold the flap down to the line up with the body in order to work the seam. Working through all 4 loops of the double crochet stitches (from Row 61), work 1 sl st in each of next 63 stitches.

Diamond Cardigan, joining seams | www.1dogwoof.com

For the 64th stitch and onwards, work only on one side of the seam (do not join the seam together). This is the beginning of your sleeve.

Diamond Cardigan, Arm Swatch

RIGHT SLEEVE

Row 1: Insert hook into the 64th stitch, draw up a loop, Ch 2. Work 1 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 3: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 4: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 5: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (71)

Row 6: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 9: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 10: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 1 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Turn. (71)

Row 11: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 12: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Cut a long tail for working the seam. Fasten a knot to secure the last stitch, then use the tail to sew the seam together, ending at the armpit. Fasten off, and weave in ends.

LEFT SEAM

Working through all 4 loops of the double crochet stitches (from Row 61), work 1 sl st in each of next 63 stitches.

For the 64th stitch and onwards, work only on one side of the seam (do not join the seam together). This is the beginning of your sleeve.

LEFT SLEEVE

Row 1: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 3: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 4: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. Turn. (71)

Row 5: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Turn. (71)

Row 6: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Row 7: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 9: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in next st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 1 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 11 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in next st. Turn. (71)

Row 10: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 9 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 st. Turn. (71)

Row 11: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 st. Turn. (71)

Row 12: Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Work [Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 7 st.] 4 times. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 st. Ch 1, skip 1 st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 st. Turn. (71)

Cut a long tail for working the seam. Fasten a knot to secure the last stitch, then use the tail to sew the seam together, ending at the armpit. Fasten off, and weave in ends.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

SLEEVE TRIM

Row 1: Work 6 foundation half double crochet stitch. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Starting from 3rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, back loops only.

Rows 3-44: Repeat Row 2, 42 times, for a total of 44 rows. Join the first and last hdc row by working 6 sl st across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the trim evenly to the sleeve using a mattress stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

BOTTOM TRIM

Row 1: Work 6 foundation hdc stitches. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Starting from 3rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, back loops only.

Rows 3-145: Repeat Row 2, 143 times, for a total of 145 rows.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the trim evenly to the body’s bottom border using a mattress stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

COLLAR TRIM

Row 1: Work 8 foundation hdc stitches. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Starting from 4rd chain from hook, work 1 hdc in each stitch across, back loops only.

Rows 3-178: Repeat Row 2, 176 times, for a total of 178 rows.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the trim evenly to the body’s collar (up one side, across the back, down the other side) using a mattress stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

Woohoo! You’re done! 

Because I take all my pictures myself, I did a little selfie photo shoot, and had a bit of fun in front of the camera while the kids played downstairs. It was a little bit of silly me time.

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

Our Bay Area weather never gets too hot, and it always cools off considerably in the evenings, so a cardigan like this is perfect for date nights walking around town. I’ve also worn it to work without feeling too fancy in lace or flowers or shells, but just nice enough even over a tshirt and jeans, AND it wards off the crazy air conditioning in the office. If it didn’t take so long for me to finish it, I’d be tempted to make it in other colors, just to use this scrumptious yarn again!

FREE crochet pattern for a Summer Diamonds Kimono Cardigan, using We Are Knitters Cotton Wool | www.1dogwoof.com

If you make this cardigan, I’d love to see your finished creations! You can share pics with me on Facebook (OneDogWoof) and Instagram (@1dogwoof), where I’ll occasionally re-share your work with everyone.

I received product from We Are Knitters for this project and post. The pattern, all notes, instructions, photos and opinions are 100% my own. 

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Please be respectful and do not sell or distribute this pattern in any way, especially as your own. Instead, share the original blog post link! You can sell finished products made from this pattern by giving credit to One Dog Woof as the pattern designer and linking to the blog post. If you have any questions regarding distribution or translation of this pattern, please see my Terms of Use. Thank you for your consideration!

76 Comments

  1. Edith

    Hi from Paris – France =)
    You are super cute & I love your blog (I am follonig it since a long while now), so thanks a lot for sharing all these nice things with us.
    It is great.

    Reply
  2. Alicisa

    Hi,

    Thanks for such a great pattern and the discount. I have ordered both and can’t wait to get started.

    Reply
  3. Beth

    What size does this fit? Can I increase for a size 2x or 3x?

    Reply
    • Carol

      I would like to know this too. It is a beautiful cardigan and I would like to make one for my daughter who is a size 10 and one for myself in a 3x.

      Reply
      • ChiWei

        Hi Carol, to size it up (or down), you’ll need to increase the number of rows worked, since that determines the width of the garment. I would assume the length would not be too different, but if the length needs to change, it always needs to be a multiple of 14, + 1. Then work the number of rows needed to reach the desired width – In order to keep the concept the same, I’d recommend increasing rows in multiples of 2, so that you’re still moving in the same direction as the original pattern.

    • ChiWei

      I would say this is a Medium. Sizing it up or down or require redoing the math involved to get the right length (which should be pretty much the same for most people) and more importantly, the number of rows crocheted. To make it bigger, you’d need to crochet more than the listed 61 rows, while always following the same diamond pattern. The construction will remain the same.

      Reply
  4. Doris

    What size is the pattern and what is the gauge? Thanks

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      The pattern is sized for me – I wear a Small, but I’d say this is a Medium. I’ve updated the post with the gauge information – a 4×4 inch swatch is 14 stitches and 9 rows. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  5. Hazel

    Love it and would like to make one for myself. What are the dimensions of the finish project? Can you give us the length of each edge?

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Thanks! I’ve included a photo which hopefully will help answer your questions. Laid flat, the cardigan is 30 inches from shoulder to bottom trim, 29 inches wide and 53 inches around.

      Reply
  6. Alexis

    Gorgeous! I have been wanting to crochet a kimono all summer, but I haven’t gotten around to it. I love yours! It turned out beautifully! And I have been wanting to try that WAK cotton. Looks great!

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Thanks Alexis! You’ll love the WAK cotton 🙂

      Reply
  7. Marsha Lavoie

    I like the style of the cardigan and making most of it as a continuous piece. But I am wondering why all the ribbing is made separately and sewn on instead of being crocheted directly onto the cardigan. (You can probably tell I am one of those lazy crocheters who does not like having lots of sewing to finish a project.)

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      The ribbing is separate because either the stitches are worked in different directions, or the stitches are of different heights (dc vs hdc).

      Reply
  8. Elizabeth Brooks

    I love the cardigan. But what I cannot understand is how you can go to all that work and not give us, your audience, any idea about size. I would buy this if I could get one to fit me, but there is no way to figure that out. So….I leave very disappointed.

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      I’m sorry you are disappointed. I realized I forgot to include such an important detail, but as I work during the week, I only got the chance to measure and update right now. I’ve updated the post, but I’ll leave the info here as well – a 4×4 inch swatch is 14 stitches and 9 rows, so the sweater is 30 inches long, 29 inches laid flat and 53 inches around. Hope that helps!

      Reply
  9. Line

    A beautiful garment both trendy and easy to wear. I’m wondering if it could be done with wool for winter.

    Reply
  10. ann

    I love this kimono cardigan and would love to make one for myself and my two daughters. The yarn sounds wonderful but if I intend to make three the cost of each skein is way beyond my budget! Can you suggest another yarn? Thank you for your creativeness.

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Hi Ann! I think any DK Sport yarn or lightweight Merino would be wonderful choices. Even a worsted weight yarn will work, but it may come out a bit more bulky.

      Reply
  11. Shannon

    I don’t understand row 39 can you help plesse?

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      This is just a full row, which is the other side of the cardigan. It’s the same as all the other full rows. What part are you having problems with?

      Reply
      • Shannon

        Where it says “joi to the main body after 4th dc” am I to do a foundation row to make up the remaining stitches so it’s back to the 197sstitches?

  12. Nikki

    Question on rows 1 and 2. For row 1, it seems the ch2 at the beginning of the row counts as a stitch, I get to the end perfectly following it that way. But for row 2, if I count the ch2 as a stitch. the first space will be directly over the previous ch 2 space. There are 6 dc at the end of row 1, then ch 2 + 5 at the beginning of row 2. Should the ch2 on row count as the first stitch then be followed by ?

    Reply
    • Kathy

      I counted my 1st ch 2 as a DC since it says Ch 2. Work 1 dc in each of next 6 st. But it Never says how many ch from the hook and I already had a chain of 197. so I ended up with 6DC at the end.

      Reply
      • ChiWei

        I apologize for the confusion. The chain 2 do not count as stitches. I’ve updated the post with a note. Thank you for bringing it to my attention!

    • ChiWei

      Hi Nikki! The ch 2 at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, and I’ve updated the post to reflect that. I will be updating the PDFs as well. Sorry for the confusion!

      Reply
  13. Mary Johnson

    Hi. I love your art. I am curious. Do you make videos to go with your patterns? I have dislexia and I have a truly hard time getting through a pattern. If you do videos or decide to make videos could you please let me know?

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Hi Mary, I’m just starting to learn how to do videos, so I hope to provide more in the future!

      Reply
  14. kksdragons

    I LOVE this!! You are so talented! I don’t suppose you made the skirt too? It looks crocheted and is GREAT with this cardigan. If you did happen to crochet the skirt, I’d love the pattern!

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      Haha, thanks! The skirt is from LulaRoe 🙂

      Reply
  15. abewi

    Hi,
    This is my first time crocheting a garment and I find adjusting the pattern to a smaller size challenging in terms of the width. I know you suggested adjusting by 2s. For the body, do I reduce any 2 rows? To maintain a consistent diamond pattern, where do I begin after the reduction? Can you please provide an example? I have completed rows 1 to 23 but realized it may be too big on me. Thanks so much!

    Reply
    • amy

      I am having trouble trying to figure out this same thing! I’m just about to start making this and trying to decide if I want it to be huge on me or try and reduce the width.

      Reply
  16. BKing

    Hello,
    I bought this pattern at Craftsy and have bought the yarn from WAK. I am almost an intermediate crocheter. My question is what stitch is used to make the swatch? You may have mentioned it or it’s self evident but I do not see it. Thank you. The pattern is gorgeous and I am very anxious to start it.

    Reply
  17. Amanda

    Thank you so much for the wonderful pattern! I’ve made two now; one for a twelve year old’s birthday gift, and another for myself. I found your pattern, instructions, and tips very easy to understand. I didn’t have any trouble adjusting for either the 12 year old or my XL wearing self. I even altered the yarn to a worsted weight acrylic, and the hook to a size 5.5mm, to maintain a similar drape while still getting that warm, cozy (affordable) quality of acrylic for this fall. Thanks again! This pattern is definitely worth a repeat 🙂

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      That’s so great to hear, and glad you’re enjoying your cardigan!

      Reply
  18. Louise Thompson

    I also do not understand row 39 where it says join to body. Can you explain how to do that part specifically? Thanks! This question was asked before, but I couldn’t find the answer. Sorry if you posted this and I missed it!

    Reply
    • ChiWei

      I’m unfamiliar with these yarns so I would not be able to give any guidance, I’m sorry! My best recommendation is to use a yarn that you’re willing to wear 🙂

      Reply
  19. Joyce

    I am stuck on row 38 where it says to join to the main body and to chain 99 stiches what is the 88 stiches for

    Reply

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