Stanley Duck Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

I figured since it’s been half a year since my last amigurumi, it’s time to introduce a new friend. Here’s my Stanley Duck amigurumi! I experimented with different yarns for this project and put together a series of video tutorials to walk you through every step of making your own stuffed duck!

Ever since I published my Classic Bunny pattern, I’ve had many people write in and ask about either the large bunny or the small bunny, expecting there to be 2 different patterns to produce the 2 different products. So this time, I’ll be sharing my experiences making the same duck using 3 different weights of yarn.

For all three ducks, I used Lion Brand yarn. Papa Duck used Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick* in Mustard and Fisherman. Mama Duck used Lion Brand Baby Soft Boucle* in Lemonade and Feels Like Butta* in Yellow. Baby Duck used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Mustard and Fisherman. I think it’s a testament to the wide range of Lion Brand’s offerings that I can even do an experiment like this and come up with 3 adorable yet completely different toys.

I made Baby Duck first because, well, it’s the smallest, and when you’re trying to design amigurumi and determine the exact right shape, you don’t want to waste time, yarn or stuffing. I love Vanna’s Choice for this step – the stitches are easy to see, and I can frog it over and over without losing the integrity of the yarn. Which, trust me, I did. Frog it over and over. Because getting the right perky tail and bulging belly took FOREVER.

This is the first amigurumi I’ve made that doesn’t use a plain circle for the body. It starts off with the magic circle like all my other stuffed animals, but the base of the body is actually a triangle! Having a triangle as the base allowed for the tail, and actually made the placement of the legs so much easier than on a round body. Of course, once you get to the belly, you switch back to circular rounds, all the way up through the head, which is worked in a single piece. The beak is sewed on and the eyes are added before closing off the head. Then the wings and legs are worked separately and sewed on at the end.

Once I had the pattern finalized, I made Papa Duck for my video tutorials. By using a larger hook and thicker yarn, hopefully you can more clearly see each step of making an amigurumi, without my hands getting in the way of seeing the stitches. This guy used a TON of stuffing, and weighs quite a bit, but is adorable huggable.

My favorite, or the Goldilocks of the bunch, is Mama Duck. She was also the hardest to make, because the stitches are so difficult to see with the boucle yarn. Baby Soft Boucle is a chenille yarn that has little loops all coming off a central strand, so it makes for the softest, squishiest feel, but it’s impossible to count stitches on. This is similar to using Homespun Thick and Quick for the Classic Bunny – you need to use a larger hook, make it looser, and stuff it lightly. The end result is a really floppy and soft duck.

For Mama Duck, I also chose not to create the webbing on her feet, mostly because I was pretty tired of making ducks and really wanted to finish, lol. Otherwise, all 3 ducks use the exact same instructions, which I’m sharing below!

For the how-to, I spent my time making the video tutorial, so unfortunately, I don’t have picture tutorials for this project. I’ll be sharing the videos in new posts as I get them edited. Here’s the first few videos – you’ll learn how to start the body with a magic circle and see how I join my rounds so the seam doesn’t spiral around the duck, then see how to choose the stuffing based on the size of the duck you want to make!

If you’re making the fuzzy duck, here’s how I manage that type of yarn:

The Stanley Duck amigurumi pattern is also available as a formatted and comment-free PDF for purchase through my pattern shops. You can find them on Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrochet and Craftsy, whichever you prefer.

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Buy the pattern from Etsy

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Who will you be making ducks for this season?

Supplies

Small duck:

• 1 ball each of Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice* in Mustard & Fisherman
• Size G/4.0mm crochet hook*
• 6mm safety eyes

Medium duck:

• 2 balls of Lion Brand Baby Soft Boucle* in Lemonade
• 2 ball of Lion Brand Feels Like Butta* in Yellow
• Size K/6.5mm crochet hook*
• 9mm safety eyes

Large duck:

• 2 balls of Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick* in Mustard + 1 ball of Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick in Fisherman
• Size K/6.5mm crochet hook*
• large safety eyes / button

All ducks:

• tapestry needle
• scissors
• fiberfill stuffing

Abbreviations

• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• ch – chain stitch
• sc – single crochet
• inc – increase – work 2 sc in st
• tr inc – work 3 sc in st
• dec – decrease – work 2 sc together
• sc3tog – work 3 sc together
• sm – stitch marker

Pattern Notes

• Skill level Intermediate.
• Gauge is less important, as long as the stitches are tight enough to prevent stuffing from coming out.
• Small duck is 8.5” laid flat, 6” seated
• Medium ducks is 14″ laid flat, 11″ seated
• Large duck is 17” laid flat, 13” seated
• Pattern is worked in the round. Join each round using a regular slip stitch join unless noted otherwise.
• Always knot the magic circle securely before weaving in ends.
• Seamless join: At the end of the round, remove your hook from the active stitch, insert the hook into the 1st stitch of the round from back to front, pick up the loop from the last stitch, and pull the last stitch through from front to back. (See the third photo in this post)

 Stanley Duck Amigurumi Pattern Instructions

BODY

Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join to first st with regular join. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work [3 sc, tr inc] 3x. Join to first st with seamless join. (18)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work [5 sc, tr inc] 3x. Join to first st with seamless join. (24)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work [7 sc, tr inc] 3x. Join to first st with seamless join. (30)

Round 6: Ch 1. Work [8 sc, tr inc, 1 sc] 3x. Join to first st with seamless join. (36)

Round 7: Ch 1. Work [9 sc, tr inc, 2 sc] 3x. Join to first st with seamless join. (42)

Round 8: Ch 1. Work [10 sc, tr inc, 3 sc] 3x. Join to first st with seamless join. (48)

Round 9-11: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (48)

Round 12: Ch 1. Work 16 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 25 sc. Join to first st with seamless join. (50)

Round 13: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (50)

Round 14: Ch 1. Work 48 sc, dec, dec, 1 sc. Join to first st with seamless join. (48)

Round 15-16: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (48)

Round 17: Ch 1. Work [6 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (42)

Round 18-19: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (42)

Round 20: Ch 1. Work [5 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (36)

Round 21: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (36)

Round 22: Ch 1. Work [4 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (30)

Round 23: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (30)

Round 24: Ch 1. Work [3 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (24)

Round 25: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (24)

Round 26: Ch 1. Work [2 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (18)

→ Stuff the body up to the neck.

Round 27: Ch 1. Work [1 sc, inc, inc] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (30)

Round 28: Ch 1. Work [8 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc (add sm in 4th sc), 3 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 5 sc. Join to first st with seamless join. (36)

Round 29-32: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (36)

Round 33: Ch 1. Work [8 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec (add sm), 7 sc, dec (add sm), 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 5 sc. Join to first st with seamless join. (30)

Round 34: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (30)

Round 35: Ch 1. Work [3 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (24)

Round 36: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (24)

Round 37: Ch 1. Work [2 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (18)

Round 38: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st with seamless join. (18)

→ Make BEAK (see below)

→ Using the stitch markers to indicate the center of the face, sew on the beak using a whip stitch.

→ Stuff the beak lightly and close off.

→ Attach safety eyes/buttons right where the beak meets the head.

Round 39: Ch 1. Work [1 sc, dec] 6x. Join to first st with seamless join. (12)

→ Add stuffing for the body if necessary and stuff the head before closing off.

Round 40: Ch 1. Work 6 dec. Do not join. Cut yarn leaving a tail. Pull tail out of last sc. Thread the tail unto a tapestry needle and sew through the front loops of the 6 sc. Pull tight, fasten off.

BEAK

Round 1: Ch 4. Work 1 sc into the 2nd ch from hook. Work 1 sc, tr inc, 1 sc, inc. Join to first st. (8)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 3 sc, tr inc, 3 sc, tr inc. Join to first st. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work 4 sc, inc, inc, 4 sc, inc, inc. Join to first st. (16)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work 5 sc, inc, inc, 6 sc, inc, inc, 1 sc. Join to first st. (20)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (20)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on to the head.

WING (Make 2)

Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join to first st with regular join. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work [1 sc, inc] 6x. Join to first st. (18)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work [2 sc, inc] 6x. Join to first st. (24)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work 2 inc, 4 dec, 4 inc, 4 dec, 2 inc. Join to first st. (24)

Round 6: Ch 1. Work 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc. Join to first st. (20)

Round 7: Ch 1. Work 1 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec. Join to first st. (16)

Round 8: Ch 1. Work 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec. Join to first st. (13)

Round 9: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (13)

Round 10: Ch 1. Work 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec. Join to first st. (10)

Round 11: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (10)

→ Stuff the wing lightly.

→ Flatten (fold with the join seam as the front edge), and work 4 sc + 1 sl st across.

→ Fasten, leaving a tail for sewing on to the body.

FEET (Make 2)

Round 1: Work 6 sc into a magic circle. Join to first st with regular join. (6)

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (12)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work [3 sc, tr inc] 3x. Join to first st. (18)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work [5 sc, tr inc] 3x. Join to first st. (24)

Round 5: Ch 1. Work [7 sc, tr inc] 3x. Join to first st. (30)

Round 6-8: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (30)

Round 9: Ch 1. Work 3 dec, 1 sc3tog, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc3tog, 1 dec. Join to first st. (20)

Round 10: Ch 1. Work 1 dec, 1 sc3tog, 12 sc, 1 sc3tog. Join to first st. (15)

Round 11: Ch 1. Work 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec. Join to first st. (11)

Round 12-13: Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join to first st. (11)

→ Stuff the feet well to fill out the shape.

→ Flatten, and work sc across. Note: You will need to stretch the working stitch to work sc from 2 st back.

→ Fasten, and leave an extra long tail.

→ Use the tail to sew through the feet and tighten to create the “webbed feet”. Make sure the tail is worked back to the top of the legs to be used to join the feet to the body.

ASSEMBLY

→ Attach wings on either side of the body, at either Round 24 or Round 25 of body.

→ Attach legs at Round 6 of body, with the outer edge of either feet lined up with the front points of the triangle base.

That’s it! Now all you have to do is hug your new duck!

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