This post has been a long time coming, mostly because I’m hesitant about making videos, but now that I’ve got a few under my belt, I’m starting to see the appeal! After sharing my Zoodiac c2c graphghan squares, many of you have requested help on learning how to crochet c2c (corner to corner), so I’ve collected a whole bunch of information here to use as a resource. I think this is pretty much everything I know about how to c2c crochet, but if there’s something you feel is missing, just let me know! And if you find these videos and instructions helpful, please share with friends!
Introduction to C2C Crochet
Ok, where to start? Corner to corner crochet, or c2c crochet, is working “tiles” in a bias instead of in straight rows or rounds. This makes it a great vehicle for following pixel graphs to create images. The world sort of becomes your oyster once you can crochet a graph! Corner to corner crochet can be square or a rectangle. I’m considering working some projects of different shapes actually, as long as they have straight sides (fractals, anyone?!).
- These instructions are how I c2c crochet. There are many other tutorials and methods out there, all with their own slight differences.
- I used an I hook and double crochets for my Zoodiacs squares, and each corner to corner “tile” is about 3/4 of an inch to an inch big, which means my 23 tile Zoodiacs square is large, 18 inches or more, and my blanket is HUGE. Using a smaller hook or a tighter tension can control the size of each tile. You can also adjust to use half double crochets for different sized tiles. Any smaller and I would consider tapestry crochet with single crochet stitches.
I don’t want to shout it because there’s still a lot of work to do ???????????? before I can share it all, but my blanket is done…and it’s larger than I expected. Anyways, lots to do to get it all ready for publishing so I hope you’ll bear with me. The ox ???? will be available soon, and I’m working on #c2c tutorials and videos as well. I hate editing videos ????, because I don’t like listening to my own voice, so there might be a bit of procrastination in there, but I’m pushing through it! ???? Can’t wait to share soon!
- To finish off a square or rectangle, it’s nice to work single crochets evenly around the border with the background color. This makes it easier to add more elaborate borders or to join squares together. For consistency, I like working 2 single crochets into each square – 2 in the square, and 1 in the space between squares.
- I use graph paper and Adobe Illustrator to create my graphs. You can also find tons of free project ideas by searching for Perler Bead graphs!
- Fair warning – a graph with many colors means there’s lots of ends to weave in. I’ll show you a few tricks I use to avoid having extra ends, but just know it’s a lot of ends.
- To help keep my yarn somewhat tangle-free, I like using my Modular Bobbin Holder to keep track of all my yarn colors. It consists of removable dowels on a wooden board so different colors can be switched around.
- Yarn of your choice. I use worsted weight yarn, usually Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice or Loops and Threads Impeccables Solids.
- A hook, of your choice. I love my Clover USA Amour hooks*.
- The graph you’re making
- Modular Bobbin Holder
- Embroidery needle
* denotes affiliate links
How to Start C2C Crochet
1st tile: Ch 3. Pinch the 3rd chain you made. Ch 3 more. Work 1 dc into the chain you’re pinching, which is the 4th chain from hook. Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 ch.
2nd row, 1st tile: Ch 3. Pinch the 3rd chain you made. Ch 3 more. Work 1 dc into the chain you’re pinching, which is the 4th chain from hook. Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 ch. Twist the two tiles, and then join to the first tile using a sl st into the ch 3 space.
2nd row, 2nd tile: Ch 2. Work 3 dc into chain space.
3rd row, 1st tile: Ch 3. Pinch the 3rd chain you made. Ch 3 more. Work 1 dc into the chain you’re pinching, which is the 4th chain from hook. Work 1 dc into each of the next 2 ch. Twist the previous rows, and then join to the last tile of the previous row using a sl st into the ch 3 space.
3rd row, all subsequent tiles: Ch 2. Work 3 dc into chain space.
This is the c2c increase, since you have more tiles in each subsequent row.
How to Change Colors and Carry Yarn
Now that you can start a c2c square or rectangle, you’re all set, if you want a big mono-colored blanket. But the whole fun of graphs is color!
To change color, work the new color yarn as the slip stitch when joining to the chain space. Then continue with ch 2, 3 dc in the chain space to create the new color tile.
I included a separate video to show how I carry yarn in my work and work over that carried yarn with my c2c tiles. All this so I can keep using the same active yarn and have less ends to weave in at the end.
In the video at the end of this post, where I create an entire project from start to finish, I show another way to hide yarn and work it into the c2c stitches.
How to Decrease C2C Crochet (aka The Light at the End of the Tunnel)
Once you pass the half way point on your square, you’ll start decreasing your c2c project, which means you will not longer be creating new tiles along a particular side. Instead, you’ll be working across the top of your previous tile to get to the next tile space. On a square project, you’ll increase and decrease at the same rate. On a rectangular project, you’ll increase at the same rate until you hit the 1 corner of the rectangle, then increasing on one side, while decreasing on the other. When you hit the next corner, you’ll start decreasing on both sides. In the future, I’d like to play with different combinations of increases and decreases to see what fun shapes I can come up with!
Once you’ve joined to the last tile with a sl st, ch 1. Turn. Work 1 sl st in each of the next 2 st across the top of the previous tile. Join to ch space with sl st. Work tile as normal – ch 2, 3 dc in chain space.
How to Weave in Ends for C2C Crochet
Oh, the worst part of it all. Actually, it’s not bad, because this is when you really start seeing your square come to life instead of it being a mess of loose yarn ends everywhere.
I fasten off all my ends with little slip knots by pulling the yarn through the last loop, and it’s held together pretty well in all of my projects. Then using an embroidery needle, weave the ends through the bottom of the 3 dc cluster, where the yarn is densest. I make about 4 passes back and forth through that cluster before cutting the end. Sometimes, there’s not cluster right where the yarn ends, so I weave in anywhere I can until I get to a cluster. In the end, it all cleans up pretty seamlessly.
You can also use the ends to clean up the actual c2c itself. Sometimes when creating diagonals with different colors, some tiles that are supposed to be “connected” look disconnected. I found that to be the case in my Tiger Zoodiac square – the stripes were a pain! In that case, leave a longer tail, and then sew the tail in a way to cover & hide any mistakes, connect 2 squares that look a bit separated or fix anything else you want fixed.
A Whole C2C Project, Start to Finish
The above tutorials showed different steps in the creation of a c2c project, but there’s nothing quite like just seeing someone work a whole project, start to finish. So I’m sharing a rather long video of me making this patriotic c2c square… coaster.
What you’ll see in the video:
- how I set up my bobbin holder
- read the graph
- start the first few tiles
- change colors
- make decisions on whether to carry the yarn or cut the yarn
- keep my yarns straight
- increase, decrease tiles
- fasten off
- work the single crochet border
I think that’s it! I hope this is helpful to you if you are looking to learn c2c crochet. Here are a few c2c projects to get your creative juices going: